Shelf Awareness for Readers | Week of Tuesday, November 10, 2020 | |||||||||||||||||
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by Thomas Keller Preparing the gorgeously intricate dishes in celebrated chef Thomas Keller's new cookbook, The French Laundry, Per Se, requires time and a certain amount of curiosity. Offering up French American recipes from Keller's iconic Napa Valley outpost, The French Laundry, and its New York City cousin, per se, Keller's latest cookbook details refined courses that might be a challenge for amateur cooks to get right--but they are likely worth the effort. The classics like French onion soup are here, alongside enticing canapés, appetizers, main courses and desserts, with plenty of vegetarian options. Elegant photos, striking in their simplicity, accompany many recipes, while others come with names and descriptions that border on poetic, like "frost-kissed garden cauliflower." Complete with essays by Keller and others, this is as much cookbook as meditation on the art of fine dining today. --Angela Lutz, freelance reviewer |
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by Marcus Samuelsson In The Rise, chef Marcus Samuelsson writes with Osayi Endolyn about the multifaceted landscape of Black American cooking, and crafts recipes with Yewande Komolafe and Tamie Cook in honor of the individuals defining this cuisine. Cassava as an ingredient features prominently--in dumplings accompanying a prawn and catfish stew and as the flour used in Sweet Wild Berry Pie. Samuelsson also instructs on the making of staples like ayib, an Ethiopian cheese he combines with sweet potato to fill brown butter-sautéed ravioli, while asking why it is that this cheese that is texturally similar to ricotta lacks the same popularity in the U.S. Rejecting stereotypical representations of Black cooking, Samuelsson presents under-recognized ingredients and dishes that draw influence from the U.S. South and the African diaspora. --Sylvia Al-Mateen, freelance reviewer and editor |
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by Yotam Ottolenghi, Ixta Belfrage Creating vegetable-based dishes with distinct "flavor bombs" is the focus of Ottolenghi Flavor, an inspiring collection of 100 recipes presented by James Beard Award-winning chef and author Yotam Ottolenghi. Writing in a conversational style accompanied by personal reminiscences, Ottolenghi teaches chefs of all abilities how to master the processes of charring, browning, aging and infusing to develop robust flavors in vegetables. Ottolenghi explains how to pair vegetables with ingredients that enhance sweetness, fat, acidity and heat. Dishes range from easy to slightly complex, and include everything from starters (Fried Onion Rings with Buttermilk and Turmeric) to desserts (Tangerine and Ancho Chile Flan). Vibrant photographs accompany nearly every recipe, most of which are vegan or easily adaptable, making Ottolenghi Flavor an exciting, versatile cookbook for all palates. --Melissa Firman, writer and blogger at melissafirman.com |
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by Claire Bingham While Wild Kitchen does include some recipes, to call it a cookbook would be to sell it short. Here, journalist Claire Bingham takes readers into the homes, kitchens, gardens and lives of 20 "nature-loving" chefs to "gain insight into [their] style of cooking and, by proxy, their lifestyles too." Bingham groups them into five categories: cooking and eating in the countryside; kitchen gardeners; farm-to-table meals; "The Experimentalists"; and local produce features. One is as likely to find a new dish here (Grape Focaccia, anyone?) as tips and ideas for home chefs who want to organize their kitchens better, plant and grow their kitchen gardens, shop better at local farmers' markets or forage for wild foods (with kids, even!). Packed with full-color photography and insight into how to incorporate nature and sustainability into everyday life, Wild Kitchen is a celebration and an invitation; it doesn't take a culinary arts degree to bring these concepts home. --Kerry McHugh, blogger at Entomology of a Bookworm |
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by Vivian Howard This Will Make It Taste Good by Vivian Howard (Deep Run Roots) is a "next-level meal prep" cookbook. Rather than instructions on pre-cooking chicken breasts that might later dry out or veggies that can get soggy, Howard offers tried-and-true flavor intensifiers. Once prepped, they can be added to a variety of quickly made meals, resulting in fresh, delicious food all week long. Her secret ingredients include a bright green dressing that can flavor anything from eggs to quesadillas; pickled citrus for fish or in a pie; and spiced pecans to perk up avocado toast or chicken salad. This Will Make It Taste Good is full of lavish photos featuring the 10 base recipes for the seasoning boosters, and then numerous riffs using each one. Practiced meal preppers and beginning cooks alike are sure to rejoice at this novel spin on meal preparation. --Jessica Howard, bookseller at Bookmans, Tucson, Ariz. |
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by Amy Zitelman with Andrew Schloss, Jillian Guyette, photographer When picturing Mom's chicken, mac 'n' cheese, carrot cake and sorbet, one likely doesn't think of tahini. Amy Zitelman and Andrew Schloss, however, have filled a cookbook with 100 easy recipes illustrating how the two thoughts can coexist in delectable tastebud bliss. Tahini is roasted and pressed sesame seeds, and is far more than a key ingredient in hummus or a drizzle topping for falafel and shawarma. Tahini can replace egg, cheese, butter and oil in cooking recipes and serves as a much healthier alternative--the ancient superfood is rich in vitamins A, E, magnesium, iron, omega-6 fatty acids, proteins and calcium. Paleo food fans may rejoice in the knowledge that even in the 13th century, tahini was considered a staple food ingredient. Standouts include Cold Spicy Sesame Noodles, Cinnamon Babka French Toast and the Giant Chocolate Jumbles. This is a mind-opening and mouth-opening-wide experience. --Paul Dinh-McCrillis, freelance reviewer |
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by Mena Massoud After traveling around the United States and Canada in search of the countries' best vegan dishes, actor Mena Massoud (Aladdin) has cooked up the delectable Evolving Vegan: Deliciously Diverse Recipes from North America's Best Plant-Based Eateries--for Anyone Who Loves Food. In chirpy headnotes, Massoud introduces 80-odd recipes, from naturally vegan staples (Tofu Skewers, Koshare) to thoroughly veganized offerings (the beef-less Szechuan Beef, the cheese-less Cast-Iron Mac 'n' Cheese, the cream-less Ice Cream Cookie Sandwich). Massoud's book includes mouthwatering color photos, sidebar salutes to vegan-restaurant-rich cities and restaurateur profiles ("Chef Doron Petersan is in da houuussee!"). Evolving Vegan is beautifully designed and, with its demystifying, nondoctrinaire approach to veganism ("You don't need to become a militant vegan to make a difference"), beautifully conceived. --Nell Beram, author and freelance writer |
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by Danielle Kartes, Jeff Hobson & Michael Kartes, photographers Recipe developer Danielle Kartes (Rustic Joyful Food: My Heart's Table) credits her mother for teaching her how to cook and feed people. Butter, gravy and apple pie were family staples for Kartes who, as a child, believed that "homemade wasn't trendy... it was just life." That philosophy is the cornerstone of a deliciously photographed collection of 125 recipes that showcases some of the memorable, simple comfort foods Kartes grew up with and still feeds her family: Beer-Battered Fish and Chips, Mom's Swiss Steak and the more complex Wine-and-Tomato-Braised Short Ribs over Parmesan Cauliflower Mash. A wide range of recipes--savory soups and stews, breakfast ideas, veggies and sides, snacks, drinks and "emotional support" sweets, including an irresistible mug cake and her grandmother's Applesauce Bundt Cake--will nourish palates and lift spirits. --Kathleen Gerard, blogger at Reading Between the Lines |
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by Joey Campanaro with Theresa Gambacorta, Con Poulos, photographer Joey Campanaro, the owner and chef of Greenwich Village's Little Owl restaurant, tosses much love into the 75 accessible Italian recipes collected in Big Love Cooking--affection for his family, the South Philadelphia area of his childhood, his customers and neighbors, New York City and food. He honors the kinds of dishes prepared by his mother and grandmother, to whom he dedicates the book, enhanced by beautiful photographs of dishes and family gatherings. The well-organized recipes are simple for home cooks to follow--and generous enough to feed large families--yet sophisticated enough to be served at Little Owl. Each recipe includes practical tidbits on substitutions (commercial marinara sauce on Mom-Mom Pizza) or building flavor profiles (Sangria-Marinated Skirt Steak). Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta with Citrus and Mint is "the fanciest unfancy dessert," and fennel seed adds dimension to Little Owl Gravy Meatball Sliders, which writer Calvin Trillin says in the foreword are his addiction. --Oline H. Cogdill, freelance reviewer |
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by Ina Garten With Modern Comfort Food, Ina Garten's 12th cookbook, readers will discover comforting recipes that nourish the body and satisfy the soul. In the midst of a global pandemic and with winter approaching, Garten provides readers with gratifying and accessible recipes to share with family and friends. Reconstructed classics like Chicken Pot Pie Soup, Cheddar & Chutney Grilled Cheese and Split Pea Soup with Crispy Kielbasa put a new spin on old favorites. Vegetables aren't often associated with comfort food, but Brussels Sprouts Pizza Carbonara and Broccoli & Kale Salad put healthy greens front and center. Modern ingredients, like Tabasco Chipotle Pepper Sauce, give Ultimate Bloody Marys an extra kick. Fresh ingredients and new twists on classic cuisine make this the perfect cookbook for challenging times. --Frank Brasile, librarian |
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by Ruwanmali Samarakoon-Amunugama "There is an art to Sri Lankan cooking," writes Ruwanmali Samarakoon-Amunugama in her artful Milk, Spice & Curry Leaves: Hill Country Recipes from the Heart of Sri Lanka. In this ode to the food of her parents and forebears, Samarakoon-Amunugama shares tips, techniques and recipes showcasing Sri Lankan cuisine's rich variety and history. The result is a lush trove of thoughtful, economical advice for adapting it to North American pantries. Vegans, vegetarians and meat-eaters alike will find much to enjoy in this collection. Whether cooking for a crowd or a few, celebrate familiar fall flavors during this unusual holiday season, and find delicious solace in the winter squash, the crab curries, the elegant, topping-laden Fancy Yellow Rice and the simply divine Coconut Roti. --Katie Weed, freelance writer and reviewer |
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by Asha Gomez, Martha Hall Foose I Cook in Color: Bright Flavors from My Kitchen and Around the World by Asha Gomez and Martha Hall Foose is inspired by the exploratory culinary journeys Kerala-born Gomez takes with her teenage son. Both share a passion for vividly colored produce and spices known for their healthful vitality, showcased in recipes such as a tasty clove-infused tomato soup, turmeric lemon chicken and cardamom mango cake. Now living in Atlanta, Gomez (My Two Souths) presents international dishes like Persian-inspired jade salad, moussaka and Singapore noodles, along with recipes capturing elements of Southern cooking, including a shepherd's pie made with venison during deer season in Georgia. Guiding home cooks from drinks to dessert, Gomez's gorgeously photographed recipes offer charming reflections on raising--and feeding--teenagers. --Shahina Piyarali, reviewer |
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by Ashley L. Jones Blogger and teacher Ashley L. Jones introduces home cooks to traditional Southern cast-iron cooking in Modern Cast Iron: The Complete Guide to Selecting, Seasoning, Cooking, and More. Jones serves up many time-tested family recipes, including beef stew and several variations on cornbread, a Southern classic, to soak it up with. She visits the Lodge manufacturing plant to talk about the process of making cast iron, then follows up with a helpful guide to seasoning pans and restoring old, neglected cookware. The recipes within are simple, but since one of the main obstacles for home cooks is how to adapt their recipes for cast-iron cookware, this is where Modern Cast Iron proves its worth. A useful primer for a cook just starting out with cast iron. --Suzanne Krohn, editor, Love in Panels |
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