Peek at the acknowledgements for this homage to one of America's favorite comfort foods, note that the authors credit the "sage counsel" of their publisher, and you have an idea of the wit in A Meatloaf in Every Oven. Former New York Times chief restaurant critic and current columnist Frank Bruni (Born Round) and Times reporter Jennifer Steinhauer (Treat Yourself) share their admiration for "a dish desperate for illumination," in this product of a decade's worth of conversations prone to shift "from Obamacare to oregano." The 50 recipes span the globe; contributors range from chefs (April Bloomfield's Lamb Loaf with Yogurt and Mint; Bobby Flay's Korean-Style Meatloaf with Spicy Glaze) to members of Congress (Oh, Deer, Speaker Paul Ryan's venison loaf; Nancy Pelosi's Italian-Style Bison Loaf).
Leslie Bruni's Sweet Nostalgic Loaf is here, too, with the traditional Worcestershire, tomato sauce (Hunt's, to be true to the Bruni kitchen) and brown sugar. Steinhauer's Jewish Christmas Loaf honors "the urban tradition of Jewish families trekking to Chinese restaurants on Christmas" and uses garlic, soy sauce and five-spice powder. Bruni embraces lamb, Steinhauer agrees it is a "protean protein" and they're off: Greek Loaf with Lamb and Feta, Jerusalem Loaf with Suman and Couscous, and more.
Nudging ground beef (not lean; meatloaf "is not a diet food") and lamb aside are ground turkey, pork, veal and--vegetarians, you're included!--zucchini (from chef Daniel Patterson) and kasha (by chef Michael Schwartz).
The friendly banter between the authors is reason enough to add this cookbook to a collection. The recipes will guarantee it moves from the bookshelf to the kitchen. --Cheryl Krocker McKeon, manager, Book Passage, San Francisco