Michele Scicolone (The Sopranos Family Cookbook, The Italian Slow Cooker) describes The Italian Vegetable Cookbook as an homage to her formative influences that "took a lifetime to write." Although Italy is known mostly for pasta, Scicolone believes fruits and vegetables have always been at the heart of Italian cooking. Historically, Italy was often impoverished, with meat reserved for special occasions, leaving room for the bounty of the fertile land and long growing season. While Scicolone's recipes feature vegetables and fruits in starring roles, this is not a vegetarian cookbook--anchovies, pancetta and chicken stock often add a splash of flavor--though many of the recipes are so substantial, meat will not be missed.
Cooks of all experience levels will be comfortable. Unlike French cooking, Italian recipes are not restrained by strict rules and readers are invited to make substitutions whenever desired. Scicolone includes a helpful section on storing produce, including how to wash greens and which fruits should be stored at room temperature. Tips on what to look for when buying, including why frozen peas are usually necessary and which canned tomatoes are best, round out the introductory section before she reveals her cornucopia of recipes--from truffle Parmesan bigne and herbed hoat cheese-ricotta crostini, to mushroom ravioli with pine nut, butter and sage sauce or beet and ricotta gnocchi with gorgonzola sauce, plus delectable desserts like hazelnut cake with chocolate-espresso sauce. The Italian Vegetable Cookbook would be a welcome addition to any kitchen. --Kristen Galles from Book Club Classics