A Girl and Her Greens: Hearty Meals from the Garden opens with a startling statement: "I've developed a bit of a reputation for meat, particularly the odd parts--what I call the not-so-nasty bits." April Bloomfield (2014 James Beard Best Chef in New York City) then explains that meat is like action films with "lots of explosions and excitement... [but] not even the juiciest steak or crispiest pig's ear gets me happy like nice peas."
Greens is not actually a vegetarian cookbook--collards are paired with bacon grease, and anchovies abound. And although readers may be tempted to jump right to the recipes, Bloomfield's introduction is entertaining and informative as she describes her earliest culinary influences and current inclinations with colloquial wit and droll observations: "thinking about someone cramming delicate herbs in a cup measure makes my bum cheeks clench." Vegetables are intimately tied to a time, place and season, and she provides invaluable insights into shopping at farmer's markets: "You never want to go to the market stubborn."
The initial recipes are ordered according to season: Pot-Roasted Artichokes with White Wine and Capers leads to Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Pesto and Burrata and If-It-Ain't-Broke Eggplant Caponata. The second half begins with pastas, polentas and pastries, and ends with "chilly weather treats" like Buttery, Not-Quite-Mushy Brussel Sprouts and vegetable juices, sauces, dressings and pickles. The entire cookbook reads as if Bloomfield is preparing the recipes alongside the home cook, providing a broader appreciation for the ingredients and preparation. --Kristen Galles from Book Club Classics