When Lara Lee set out to Indonesia to uncover the culinary traditions of her father's family, the journey morphed into a wider exploration of the islands' cuisine. Coconut & Sambal: Recipes from My Indonesian Kitchen is the inviting result, brimming with recipes inspired by Lee's grandmother "Popo," her aunties and hospitable cooks across Indonesia.
Each section of this volume shines: it begins with "Savoury Snacks," ends with "Basic Recipes," and hits "Soups & Rice," "Fish & Seafood" and more along the way. Most of the recipes incorporate the titular and infinitely versatile coconut and sambal, a ubiquitous hot relish. Lee's recommended sambal pairings accompany most dishes and are a distinguishing touch. A Medanese prawn bisque with noodles becomes all the more mouth-watering with her serving suggestion of fermented shrimp sambal terasi, spring onions and a soft-boiled duck egg. Meanwhile, Betawi beef and coconut soup promises additional heat and acidity if finished with ground chili sambal ulek, cucumber, chilli and shallot pickle.
Vivid photography evokes the food culture of Indonesia. Images of open markets with fresh produce and seafood and street vendors offering their specialties complement shots of finished dishes (green and white coconut sticky rice balls served with coffee) and those in process (the preparation of smashed fried chicken with sambal). Lee's writing is similarly multi-faceted, balancing charming anecdotes and clear cooking instructions to accommodate cooks with varied resources and dietary restrictions. Personal and palate-pleasing, the recipes of Coconut & Sambal are surely a delight to cook. --Sylvia Al-Mateen, freelance reviewer and editor