At most restaurants, vegetables don't get the attention they deserve, typically being relegated to side dishes that complement a protein centerpiece. But in Root, chef Rob Howell's joyful and visually stunning new cookbook, greens, peppers, squash and more are the stars of the show. Based on recipes prepared at Howell's waterfront restaurant of the same name in Bristol, U.K., which he runs with his partner, Megan Oakley, the more than 100 dishes, salads, snacks and desserts presented here are colorful, creative and surprisingly robust. While a novice can easily whip up basic items like the cashew and chickpea hummus, some of Howell's food preparation techniques likely require a certain amount of culinary skill. The onion, leek, celeriac and Jerusalem artichoke lattice with vegetable gravy, for instance, comprises two full pages of detailed (yet surprisingly easy to follow) instructions. The resulting loaf, however, is an edible work of art that is certainly worth the effort.
Root also offers directives to prepare fish and meat-based side dishes, such as spiced monkfish with curried onions, applesauce, mint and coriander yoghurt. These enticing and distinctive flavors are key to Howell's approach as a chef: "I learned the importance of using the freshest ingredients and how simplicity is the best friend to flavour," he writes in the introduction. With recipes accompanied by crisp, striking illustrations, this cookbook will encourage home chefs to elevate their flavors, and perhaps start to shift to a more sustainable, plant-based diet. --Angela Lutz, freelance reviewer