Sofreh: A Contemporary Approach to Classic Persian Cuisine by Nasim Alikhani, with Theresa Gambacorta, is a heartfelt, warm embrace of a book, filled with stories of home, the pleasure of feeding others, and the saffron-studded sensuality of delicious Iranian home cooking. Alikhani launched into the New York culinary scene in 2018, on the cusp of her 60th birthday. Since then, her career has soared, including her recent stint at the White House preparing dishes for a special Iranian new year celebration. In her debut cookbook, named after her Brooklyn restaurant, she uses the words "Persian cuisine" and "Iranian food" interchangeably, with geographical and historical explanations for how those terms overlap.
Sofreh introduces food categories in order of their importance at the family table. Bread is the "primary pillar," followed by dairy and rice. Alikhani notes that herbs are used in Iranian cooking more than in any other cuisine; a platter of fresh herbs is typically served at the start of every meal. Though recipes for meat, poultry, and seafood dishes abound, followed by pickles and a splendid chapter on sweets, vegetarians and vegans will find plenty of recipe options to explore. Alikhani also devotes a chapter to "a'ash," a stew made from beans and other legumes, cracked wheat, and freshly chopped herbs. Garnished with mint oil and crispy onions, it is the ultimate vegan comfort food.
Readers will want to linger over Quentin Bacon's many gorgeous photos, including one for a colorful "jeweled rice." With quotes from Alikhani's mother sprinkled throughout, Sofreh is a deeply personal and passionate homage to Persian hospitality. --Shahina Piyarali, reviewer