It was hard to interrupt my research into the food groups Butter and Bacon to investigate cocktails, but I was rewarded doubly for the effort: drinks with the author of Good Spirits and discovery of the Bacontini. I'm a purist when it comes to martinis, so this drink set up a push-pull that was resolved by being told that yummy drinks don't get to choose their names; so-called "martinis" should be given a chance--"they just want to make you happy." A. J. Rathbun's aim is to make you happy with 450 drink recipes, and he will.We met at the Copper Gate in Ballard, the Scandinavian enclave of Seattle, where instead of flights of wine, they serve flights of aquavit (and we all have aquavit stories, don't we?). Obvious question: did he make and try all the drinks? Answer: yes. He and his wife are former bartenders, with many friends; as he says of an undertaking like this, "it takes a village." He's also an encyclopedic reader and book collector, and his writing, splashed with quotes, anecdotes, facts and lists (five classic cocktail books published before 1950, drinks for the links or "Three Drinks to Buy Someone Annoying at the Bar"), set this book apart from the pack.
Good Spirits is arranged by 12 thematic chapters, including "The Gold Standards," "An Obscure Reliquary" and "Fresh Faces." He starts with a discussion of five "base" liquors, plus Champagne, with brief histories of each (gold tequila is young silver tequila colored to look aged, a good thing to remember at the taqueria), additional ingredients, accessories, tools and glassware. Hints are truly helpful, such as how instantly to serve better drinks (fresh fruit, soda siphon, new ice). Drink histories and enthusiastic descriptions are a delightful bonus. The Bronx (gin, freshly squeezed orange juice, sweet and dry vermouths) is named for the zoo, not the borough--"The Bronx should be a cocktail that comes automatically to mind when musing over what constitutes an all-time all-star . . . Here's for bringing it back, and right now." He calls the Manhattan nigh-perfect, "[constituting] proof that there's a benevolent force working for us in the universe."
From the copyright page with its content shaped like a bottle to the chapter heading photos of cocktail shakers, the book is handsomely designed, with luscious photography by the aptly-named Melissa Punch. If you are looking to add a signature cocktail to your hosting repertoire or looking for a new drink to try when out with friends, Good Spirits is the perfect book.
When I asked A. J. Rathbun what his favorite cocktail is, he replied, "The one just around the corner." In that spirit of anticipation, he agreed to concoct a drink for Shelf Awareness, tipping a glass to our benevolent masthead spirit:
Vik's Secret
- Ice cubes
- 1 ounce Clear Creek loganberry liqueur
- 1-1/2 ounces gin
- 1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
- 1/2 ounce simple syrup
- Chilled ginger ale
2. Strain the mix into a cocktail glass. Top with ginger ale, almost to the rim. Stir briefly.
A. J. explained his process: "I thought it was fun to have a little bit of bubbles added, as the newsletter seems to be bubbling over with information and insight (and I thought the ginger in the ginger ale was a slight Eastern shout out, too). This one has a very deep rich color but no garnish and a nice grape/berry flavor." We mixed it, drank it and we bubbled over with delight.--Marilyn Dahl