Mandahla: Cookbooks

The Bacon Cookbook by James Villas (Wiley, $35, 9780470042823/0470042826, October 2007)

What's a cookbook year without a bacon cookbook? Healthier, some might argue, but not as much fun. Wiley has won the honors this year with The Bacon Cookbook by James Villas. He proclaims bacon "the greatest and most beloved food on earth" and describes not only "regular" bacon but artisanal bacons and an array of foreign types. He wants to quiet critics who decry bacon as a health hazard as well as admonish those who eat more than two or three slices per sitting--moderation in consumption, profligacy in enjoyment. His enthusiasm goes overboard when he says that vegetarians and religious abstainers are "haunted instinctively by the sensuous, irresistible enticement of bacon," but is on track for the rest of us, as the "taunting backwoods aroma" fills this book with happiness and the need to fry up some rashers right now. Russian Hash and Eggs, made with pumpernickel bread; Venezuelan Squash, Potato and Bacon Pancakes; the traditional Cobb Salad; Ecuadorian Smoky Pumpkin Soup with sage and dark rum; Smoky Hoppin' John, just in time for New Year's Day menus; Bacon Parmesan Biscuits; even Swedish Spice Cookies made with bacon drippings--oh, my goodness. Villas inexplicably leaves out a personal favorite, Pasta Carbonara, but that's a cavil; all in all, his cookbook is a treat.

Mocha by Michael Turback (Ten Speed Press, $9.95 paper, 9781580088619/1580088619, October 2007)

While James Villas thinks Bacon is the greatest food on earth, he could find some argument from both chocolate and coffee lovers. (I say have a mocha with your bacon and eggs--the classic salty sweet combo). Michael Turback has provided ample ammunition for a taste-off, with recipes from a simple Mocha to the complicated Night in Casablanca, which involves making white cardamom marshmallows first. Or try Mokka Peppar, whose cocoa base has paprika, cayenne, Tellicherry black peppercorns and pink peppercorns, with peppercorns in the whipped cream. Cocktails are included as are scrumptious desserts. The recipe and photograph for Kaffee Schokolade Coffeecake are swoon-inducing.

Hot Drinks by Mary Lou Heiss and Robert J. Heiss (Ten Speed Press, $16.95, 9781580088848/1580088848, October 2007)

All that mocha goodness needs to be cut with something like tea, and the authors (whose last name in German means hot) of Hot Drinks have just the thing: Moroccan Mint Tea, or perhaps Red Rocket--black tea with cinnamon sticks, Red Hots and orange slices. As a Dr. Pepper lover, I was pleased to find Monk's Robe tonic, made with the dark soda, red grapefruit juice, fresh ginger and lemon and orange slices. They also have some coffee and chocolate drinks--Café Viennoise with white crème de cacao and coffee and chocolate liqueurs, or Paris After Dark, coffee and cocoa with sweetened whipped cream sprinkled with a bit of fleur de sel. Festive drinks like Mistletoe and Holly, or Tres Leches, or the Highland Fling with orange juice, fresh sage, Meyer lemon juice and Drambuie, will warm you (and your guests) up nicely this winter.--Marilyn Dahl

 

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