Joey Campanaro, the owner and chef of Greenwich Village's Little Owl restaurant, tosses much love into the 75 accessible Italian recipes collected in Big Love Cooking--affection for his family, the South Philadelphia area of his childhood, his customers and neighbors, New York City and food. He honors the kinds of dishes prepared by his mother and grandmother, to whom he dedicates the book, enhanced by beautiful photographs of dishes and family gatherings.
The well-organized recipes are simple for home cooks to follow--and generous enough to feed large families--yet sophisticated enough to be served at Little Owl. Each recipe includes practical tidbits on substitutions (commercial marinara sauce on Mom-Mom Pizza) or building flavor profiles (Sangria-Marinated Skirt Steak). Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta with Citrus and Mint is "the fanciest unfancy dessert," and fennel seed adds dimension to Little Owl Gravy Meatball Sliders, which writer Calvin Trillin says in the foreword are his addiction. --Oline H. Cogdill, freelance reviewer