Consider the Master
Why write about food? Why not power, security or love? Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher--known to most readers as M.F.K. Fisher--answers: "It seems to me that our three basic needs, for food and security and love, are so mixed and mingled and entwined that we cannot straightly think of one without the others. So it happens that when I write of hunger, I am really writing about love and the hunger for it, and warmth and the love of it and the hunger for it…"
Fisher's food writing helped establish what now is an abundant genre. Whet your appetite with Fisher's Consider the Oyster (North Point Press, $13), offering recipes and essays on the "dreadful but exciting" mollusk. You can't go wrong with her Oysters Rockefeller.
Then feast on How to Cook a Wolf (North Point Press, $16), first published in 1942 when rationing was becoming a daily part of the war effort for many Americans. Fisher's sparkling prose illuminates the delights of humble buttered toast, how to stomach--and enjoy--organ meat, the possibilities afforded by canned food and the American tendency to overcook vegetables. Her humor easily holds up: "Almost all vegetables are good, although there is some doubt still about parsnips." Try the Tomato Soup Cake. (Really.)
Fisher's seminal work The Gastronomical Me (North Point Press, $16) traces the enviable highlights of her culinary life, a perfect start for a taste of her blend of sumptuous detail with measured wisdom. Recalling a childhood sundown spent with her father and sister, she writes "the three of us are in some ways even more than twenty-five years older than we were then. And still the warm round peach pie and the cool yellow cream we ate together that August night live in our hearts' palates, succulent, secret, delicious." --Katie Weed, freelance writer and reviewer



